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Whenever compiling a list of London’s best dining spots, one might anticipate well-known award-winning names. However, nestled prominently among these culinary giants is a simple salonu located in a outlying corner of north London.

An Unexpected Recognition

The small Turkish eatery, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a influential gastronomic guide. The accolade has made the proprietors utterly shocked.

“I’m totally shocked,” states the proprietor, referring to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their humble restaurant securing such a high position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

The compact space, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular destination, has kept much of its earlier charm. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking show, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” says the owner.

The Signature Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this establishment certainly delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a tender quality.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are added in slowly. When the meaty mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is folded tightly inside.

It is usually consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a deeper, toastier and less sickly taste.

Surpassing the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, equivalent experiences at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

The Creed of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a position of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to show what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am really pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was very tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she had a social life but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

An Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to have meaning beyond its own doors. “I think many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the wider significance of this culinary triumph.